14th NEW YORK STATE MILITIA (“14th Brooklyn”) CHASSEUR TROUSERS
(as of February 15, 2021)
STANDARD GRADE - $199.00 includes shipping & applicable NY sales taxes
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MUSEUM GRADE - $275.00 includes shipping & applicable NY sales taxes
General overview:
The wool I currently use is a medium weight fabric in a darker shade of scarlet red. Regrettably, it is not madder red (the correct shade of madder red for 14th NYSM trousers is extremely difficult to find). This fabric is a wool blend meaning it is 85% wool and 15% synthetic fiber (no, you can't see the synthetic content in the fabric). Free swatches are available; just contact me). My MUSEUM GRADE version of these trousers are lined in muslin whereas the STANDARD GRADE version does not have the muslin lining. All my 14th Brooklyn trousers are now sewn in red thread. I had previously used a natural color tan thread in my “Museum Grade” version of these trousers but that specific thread is no longer on the market.
As per the original 14th NYSM pattern, these trousers have a high waist cut, a sloping back, tapered waistband and a fully pleated waistline. There are two adjustment belts on the back with a correct pattern two‑tine brass buckle. The rear waistband is split for a small range of adjustment and the cuffs are rolled and hemmed. The pocket bags and all facings are made from a durable 8 oz. unbleached cotton drill as per the originals.
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Standard Grade - vs- Museum Grade:
I offer these trousers in the two versions as outlined (Standard Grade and Museum Grade). From the outside, these two grades look almost identical since I use the same pattern and fabrics. The main difference between the two versions is on the inside. There is a LOT more hand sewing on the inside of the Museum Grade trousers whereas the vast majority of sewing on the inside of Standard Grade trousers is done by machine. However, from the outside it is difficult to tell the two apart. The main reason I offer two grades is simply cost. I originally offered 14th NYSM trousers in only the Museum Grade version. However, as time went by a number of gentlemen from various companies of the 14th asked if I could make a version of 14th NYSM trousers that was less expensive. Hence, the Standard Grade version of these trousers was born. Externally both versions look almost identical; however, it’s how they’re sewn on the inside that makes the main difference between the two.
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STANDARD GRADE:
Standard Grade trousers are principally machine sewn inside and out but do have HAND SEWN BUTTON HOLES, rolled hand felled cuffs plus hand sewn tacks on the corners of the pocket openings and on the rear waistband split. These trousers feature two rear adjustment belts w/ a brass two-tine buckle, side seam main pockets plus all internal cottons are unbleached cotton drill. The waistline is pleated as per original 14th NYSM trousers. My Standard Grade trousers are NOT lined. Also, there are no size or inspector stamps present inside Standard Grade trousers. Neither version of my 14th Brooklyn trousers has a watch pocket. I have had the privilege of inspecting several pair of relic 14th Brooklyn trousers down through the years and none of these issue trousers had a watch pocket. I have seen several privately tailored (meaning not issued through the unit quartermaster) 14th NYSM trousers that did have a watch pocket - but none of the state issue trousers had them. Finally, buttons are either black stipple tin buttons or tin face-paper back buttons. I prefer to use the black stipple faced tin buttons but these are not always available. If I cannot obtain black stipple tin buttons I will then use the standard Army style tin faced paper backed button.
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MUSEUM GRADE:
These trousers are the top of the line for details as the name implies ‑ Museum Grade. These trousers are machine sewn on the main body seams (as were the original 14th trousers) BUT feature an EXTENSIVE AMOUNT of internal hand sewing as found in original 14th trousers. This hand sewing includes hand sewn buttonholes, hand sewn pocket bar tacks, hand felled pocket facings, hand felled fly & waistband facings plus hand sewn bar-tacks on the pocket opening corners and rear waistband split. The cuffs are rolled and likewise all hand felled. My Museum Grade trousers also come with a "JOS. JONES, N.Y." New York Depot inspector's stamp on one of the waistband facings and this stamp is a copy of an original found in relic 14th NYSM trousers. Where applicable I also include a government size stamp - likewise copies of originals. These trousers feature two rear adjustment belts w/ a brass two-tine buckle, side seam main pockets plus all internal cottons are unbleached cotton drill. The waistline is pleated as per original 14th NYSM trousers. These trousers also feature a full length muslin lining as per originals inspected. Buttons are either black stipple tin or tin face-paper back buttons. I prefer to use the black stipple faced tin but these are not always available. If I cannot obtain black stipple tin buttons I will then use the standard Army style tin faced paper backed button.
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ORDERING:
To order a pair of my 14th NYSM trousers I need the following information:
WHICH VERSION WOULD YOU LIKE: Museum Grade or Standard Grade?
MEASUREMENTS: I need the following two measurements.
. . . WAIST: as measured at navel level. This measurement can be taken while wearing a tee shirt. I cannot go by what you wear for a waist size in jeans or modern trousers. Civil War trousers are cut differently than modern trousers so to get the best fit for you I need this measurement taken as directed.
. . . LENGTH: now here I can go by what you wear in jeans or modern trousers. It’s just the waist size from modern trousers that I cannot use.
PLEASE NOTE: If you have to buy Extra Tall or Extra Short jeans or modern trousers please let me know when you order! In either case I will be need a couple additional measurements to insure we get the fit correct for you.
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DELIVERY TIME: Please allow at least eight weeks minimum for me to be able to get to and complete your trousers. The clock starts ticking from the date payment is received. Sorry, “rush orders” are simply not possible. All orders are worked on in the order they are received.
PAYMENT METHOD: Personal check, money order or PayPal. Sorry, I am not set up to directly take credit cards or any other type of payment options. Personal check or money order can be made out to Stony Brook Company and our mailing address is further below. For PayPal, our payee address is: cams@twcny.rr.com
FINAL NOTES: The fabric I used for 14th NYSM trousers is a special order fabric and I do not stock it. As I need fabric I call the order in to the distributor. If I run into a delay in getting the fabric I contact the customer and brief him of the situation. If the buyer requests it, a full refund is certainly available and promptly issued; never a problem.
Chris Sullivan
Stony Brook Company
169 W. Fifth Street
Oswego NY 13126-2505
My e-mail address is: cams@twcny.rr.com